In Iraq the power does not just cut out, it goes and comes back, the voltage swings, and you switch between the national grid and the generator several times a day. Most computers and monitors are not damaged by the outage itself but by the sudden return of the current. That is where a UPS comes in. But one question stops most people at the moment of purchase: which size do I pick? Is 850VA enough, or do I need to go all the way up to 3000VA? In this guide we work it out step by step, with simple numbers you can run yourself in two minutes.
Rule one: the difference between volt-amps (VA) and watts
Every UPS has a number printed on it like 1500VA or 3000VA, and that number is not watts. VA is the apparent power, while watts is the real power the unit can actually deliver, and the relationship between the two is called the power factor:
- Watts = VA × power factor
- Budget Line Interactive units usually have a power factor between 0.5 and 0.6
- Online units and newer models are normally higher, between 0.8 and 0.9
So a 1500VA unit with a factor of 0.6 gives you only about 900 watts. The common mistake is to read it as 1500 watts and then wonder why the unit keeps cutting out. If you do not know the power factor quoted by the manufacturer, calculate with 0.6 and you stay on the safe side.
Step one: add up your load in watts
Write a list of every device that will be plugged into the UPS, and use real consumption rather than the number printed on the power supply (a 750 watt power supply does not mean your PC draws 750 watts). Here are rough figures to guide you:
- Office desktop with no graphics card: 80 – 150 watts
- Gaming PC with a mid-range graphics card: 250 – 450 watts under load
- 24 – 27 inch monitor: 20 – 40 watts
- Laptop with its charger: 45 – 120 watts
- Router, modem and a small switch: 10 – 25 watts
- Small camera recorder with its cameras: 30 – 60 watts
And this one matters a lot: do not connect a laser printer to the UPS, because it draws hundreds of watts the instant it heats up, and it can shut down a unit twice its size. The same goes for heaters, air conditioners and fridges.
Step two: add headroom, then convert to VA
Once you have the total watts, add 25% to 30% of headroom, because you may add another device later, and because running a UPS at full capacity shortens battery life fast. The maths is simple:
- Total watts × 1.3 = required load
- Required load ÷ 0.6 = required size in VA
A worked example: a 300 watt PC + a 35 watt monitor + a 15 watt router = 350 watts. Multiply by 1.3 and you get 455 watts, divide by 0.6 and you get roughly 758VA. So 850VA is the lowest size you should accept, and 1500VA is the more comfortable choice that also buys you more time.
| Actual load | Suggested size | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 20 watts | Mini UPS | Router and modem only |
| Around 150 watts | 850VA | A monitor with a light PC, or cameras |
| Around 250 watts | 1500VA | Office desktop and monitor |
| 350 – 450 watts | 2000VA | Mid-range gaming PC |
| 500 – 700 watts | 3000VA | Heavy gaming or more than one machine |
Step three: size is one thing, runtime is another
This is the point most buyers miss. The VA rating decides how many devices you can run at the same time, while how many minutes they keep running is decided by the batteries: how many there are and their capacity in amps. A 2000VA unit with two 12V-9A batteries gives you far less time than a unit with the same rating but six batteries. So if your goal is to save your file and shut down safely, two batteries are enough; and if you want to keep working for half an hour, look for a model with more batteries. The heavier the load the shorter the time, and at half load a unit will run for roughly twice as long.
Line Interactive or Online?
This difference matters in Iraq more than almost anywhere else:
- Line Interactive: it has an AVR voltage regulator that corrects sags and surges without draining the battery, it costs less, and it covers more than 90% of home and office use.
- Online (double conversion): it rebuilds the waveform from scratch, so the connected device never feels the switch between the grid and the generator. It is the right choice for servers, network gear and sensitive workstations, but it costs more.
Options to match your case
If all you need is for the internet and the router to stay up during a cut, there is no reason to buy a big unit. The 18 watt Mini UPS is made for a router and a modem, it costs around 26,000 IQD, and it is the cheapest and smallest solution.
For a light load, a monitor with a budget PC, a camera system, or a small point of sale, an 850VA Line Interactive unit with a single battery and an LCD display covers around 500 real watts and gives you enough minutes to save and shut down safely, at a price close to 68,000 IQD.
The most requested option for a desktop or a work PC is the 1500VA Line Interactive with two 12v-9a batteries and an LCD display. It suits a load in the range of 250 – 350 watts with a comfortable safety margin, and it costs around 124,000 IQD.
And if you have a gaming PC with a powerful graphics card, or more than one machine and two monitors on the same desk, the logical move is 3000VA with four batteries, because the extra batteries give you longer runtime under a heavy load. It costs around 246,000 IQD.
And if your work cannot take a single moment of interruption, a server, network gear, a sensitive workstation, move up to a true Online unit such as the APC Easy SRV at 1000VA for a price close to 562,000 IQD. You pay more in return for complete isolation from grid and generator problems. Prices are always kept up to date on the product page itself.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Buying a unit that matches your load exactly with no headroom, so it always runs at its limit.
- Connecting a laser printer or any heating appliance to the UPS.
- Expecting a unit to run for hours when it only has one battery.
- Leaving the UPS switched off for months, because a battery degrades from disuse just as it does from overuse.
- Ignoring the earth (ground) in your house wiring, because leakage and lightning protection depend on it.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a UPS last before its battery is finished?
Usually two to three years in Iraqi conditions (high heat and frequent cuts). The battery is a replaceable part, and replacing it is far cheaper than buying a new unit, with replacement 12V 9Ah batteries available at around 30,000 IQD.
Does a UPS work with a generator?
Yes, and it is in fact essential, because the switching moment is the most dangerous one for your devices. Line Interactive units handle it well, and Online units give the best result when the generator is unstable.
Can I connect the monitor and the router to the same unit?
Yes, as long as the total stays within the calculation above. UPS outlets are usually split into battery outlets and protection-only outlets, so plug the important devices into the battery outlets.
How do I order from outside Baghdad?
Delivery covers every Iraqi province, payment is cash on delivery, and you can inspect the product before paying to confirm the model, the accessories and that the unit works, then hand the money to the courier.
In short: add up the watts, add 30%, divide by 0.6, and then decide how many batteries you need for the runtime you want. And if you are torn between two sizes, take the bigger one; the price difference is small and the benefit to your battery and your devices is big.
